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Small, nondescript and hiding in a strip mall, Baltic would be easy to miss. Don’t! This is Polish food at its best: hearty, yes, but fresh and flavorful with a homespun quality that tastes like an updated version of grandma’s. Freshly baked baguette acts like a global bruschetta base for cheesy sautéed mushrooms, while pillowy pierogi are dotted with caramelized bits of onion and bacon. Hungarian-style beef goulash is a workingman’s dream, but it’s the pork cutlet that stands out, crispy outside, juicy inside and served with a side of snappy sautéed beets. Baltic doesn’t do dessert, but you won’t have room anyway.
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