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Named for a province in the Mekong Delta, Ben Tre presents authentic, homestyle Vietnamese cooking in a bright storefront. Pho arrives properly soulful with an aromatic broth and fresh herbs. The rice noodles with grilled beef and pork egg rolls (bun bo nuong cha gio) and a coconut-milk crêpe studded with pork belly and shrimp (banh xeo) exemplify the kitchen’s skill with traditional dishes, and the green-papaya salad (goi du du tom tit) sent us straight to the tropics.