Compared to its sister restaurant, the pricey Japanese joint Roka Akor, Bombay Spice is a lesson in restraint. Here, vibrant colors and an airy feel carry over to breezy, herb-garnished cocktails and lighter takes on Indian classics. By design, you won’t find the intense richness that clarified butter (ghee) adds to this cuisine, because somewhere along the line, the concept swapped out ghee in favor of olive oil. And if you’re a fan of Indian food for its heat, you won’t find that here, either (even the vindaloo is relatively tame). But where the food lacks punch and complexity, it makes an earnest effort with execution. So if you can check your Devon comparisons at the door, you can have a lovely meal.