Cantonesia

The awesome sign and awning date back to this staple’s midcentury debut, but the recently remodeled interior is brand-spanking new. The owners have created a comfortable setting, replete with lacquered black tables and romantic dimmed lighting. The menu happily remains old-school Cantonese, with specialties like crispy shrimp roll, sizzling rice seafood soup and kung pao chicken. Some items (such as the ying yang shrimp) are a bit sweet for our taste but can be countered with the ultratart house specialty—mai tais.