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In the people-watching crotch where Wicker Park and Bucktown collide, offering margarita pitchers in a breezy, open-front restaurant nearly guarantees a packed house, regardless of what’s on the plate. That’s why we were surprised at the better-than-average eats served at this Mexican spot. Chips are fresh, salsa is complex and smoky, and sizzling platters of seafood are downright scarfworthy, brimming with perfectly seared, fat scallops; spice-rubbed langostinos; and tender calamari tubes. Just skip the pedestrian stuff—especially the rock-hard sope and enchilada starters—and stick with the parrilladas, or mixed grills.
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