Caponies Trattoria

Irony doesn’t exist at this red-sauce joint, so take a cue from the name and the Sopranos mobile dangling over the cash register and behave yourself. It’d be a crime to get yourself banned from this place because, while it might not be doing anything new, its brand of Italian classics is impeccably executed. Thin-crust Margherita pizzas shimmer with olive oil and explode with the flavors of basil, garlic and fresh mozzarella; enormous portions of chicken Parmesan are greaseless and immersed in a chunky, fresh tomato sauce; and the housemade tiramisu is so boozy you may forget you’re in the States.