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Given the neighborhood and decor, this pan-Latin joint seems akin to Chi-Chi’s. But it takes only a promising pair of subtle lumpia—Filipino egg rolls stuffed with duck, peppers, red cabbage and onions—to realize that this spot deserves a closer look. Tilapia arrives in blue corn flour and served on a rice-paper tostada; Chicken Negra Modelo is glazed in its namesake beer and flanked by spinach and cheese chilaquiles; and the Sandwich Coobah is as solid a Cuban sandwich as any other.