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There’s a clear dichotomy at this often-overlooked spot: Older neighborhood folks come for the well-executed, if dull, Chinese dishes; and the younger crowd devours the fresh, delicious sushi. The ambience is a nod to the old-school patrons—floral carpeting, white tablecloths and smooth jazz. But we’ll overlook the hotel-lobby decor as long as the flavorful maki keep coming: Dee’s maki, a giant, two-bite roll packed with lettuce, tuna, salmon, yellowtail, avocado, crunch and sprinkled with tobiko and the guilty-pleasure Mexican maki, a tuna roll spiced up with cilantro, jalapeno and lime.
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