Let’s start with the Devil Dawg. It’s juicy and smothered in a generous amount of relish and sport peppers. It clues you in: The heart of this standing-room-only hot-dog joint is in the right place. But while you may want the hot dog, what you need is the steakburger: a petite, almost slider-like patty—easily justifiable as a “side” to that hot dog—on a buttery, eggy bun. In fact, the only thing you don’t want or need here is cheese: The super-salty nacho-ish stuff wreaks havoc on the fresh-cut, crisp fries. Then again, if it’s 2am, we’ll let it slide.