The ice cream Eddie Lakin is using for the milkshakes at Edzo’s is a brand you’ve never heard of—a normal, regulation, non-premium brand. But that’s hard to believe after downing one of his shakes, which are uncommonly and luxuriantly thick. This is particularly true with the Nutella flavor, which has an underscore of nuttiness that doesn’t just taste rich—it tastes expensive.
Of course, high-low is Lakin’s whole point. He’s created a gourmet burger joint that isn’t gourmet, or at least isn’t gourmet in the way that those other high-end burger flippers are. The interior is a stab at authentic Vienna Beef dive, and for the most part the menu sticks with that theme: It’s all patty melts and char dogs and cheese fries. But it doesn’t take long to notice the truffle fries (made with truffle salt, not oil, because Lakin thinks it’s a purer product), or that Nutella option in the shakes. Where does the low-brow end and the high-end begin? The answer is that it’s intertwined, because the most crucial, highfalutin thing Lakin does—grinding his own meat and hand-cutting the potatoes for his fries—infects almost every dish. These details are impossible not to notice. The burgers actually taste beefy, and the fries—both the regular and the “old” style, which is Lakin’s way of saying “well-done”—are textbook examples in frying. This means it’s a little hard to see the place as what it’s trying to emulate (those quick, surly, greasy Vienna shops never get it this right), but that’s okay. Lakin is putting most of his efforts into his product, not the surroundings. And ultimately that’s all anybody will remember about a meal here anyway.
By David Tamarkin
|Venue name:||Edzo’s Burger Shop|
1571 Sherman Ave
|Cross street:||between Grove and Davis Sts|
|Opening hours:||Lunch (closed Mon)|
|Transport:||El stop: Purple to Davis. Bus: 93, 201, 205. Train: Union Pacific N to Evanston (Davis St).|
|Price:||Average main course: $7|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
4.5 / 5
- 5 star:1
- 4 star:1
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
I've been working near this spot for a few weeks and my curiosity was piqued. I couldn't see inside the place and sort of assumed items empty. I was wrong. The line nearly extended out the door. I had a hankering for a burger and shake and wowza were my needs met. The Nutella shake is heavenly. And the classic single 4oz hamburger with everything is solid. I maybe would get cheese next time, but otherwise no need of improvement. I can't speak to the fries, but they looked fine.
Edzo's was a staple toward the tail end of my college years in Evanston. Now, whenever I'm visiting, I realize that this is the kind of delicious, low-key burger joint that all others should aspire to. The quality and selections are first-rate, but the prices are affordable and the vibe is friendly, relaxed and never pretentious. Everything here is so memorable that I make sure to grab my go-to—griddle burger with fried egg, truffle fries and a maple shake—any time I'm in the area. The only downside: Seating can be pretty tight, especially when people ignore the "order, then sit" mandate.