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This small, cheery room is packed with Colombian tchotchkes (as well as a stuffed armadillo hanging on the wall), which gives the place a festive vibe. What is it celebrating? Chicken, and the fact that it turns this blank-slate-of-foods into a dinner that’s plump, juicy, golden, perfectly charred and endlessly flavorful. Tender brisket immersed in mild tomato sauce, crisp fried yuca, and a strip steak with fresh and lively chimichurri grace this menu. But they’re just backup. For once, the lowly chicken is the star of the show.