This Ethiopian choice stands out for consistency and punchy flavors. The ground beef in the sambusa is livened with peppers, making the timid potato-and-carrot variety pale in comparison. Vegetables shine in the entrées, particularly in the two types of split peas: the rich yet tame alicha and the spicy wat, both stewed to melt-in-your-mouth perfection and served with injera bread. Fat and bones abound, but don’t let that stop you from gnawing on the kay wat, beef cubes simmered in the “diamond sauce,” a gingery, cumin-laced red sauce with a nice chili kick.
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