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Guests at the Radisson Blu and residents of the Aqua are the logical clientele for this flashy, bilevel hotel restaurant. And it certainly would do them no harm to try the polipo, a salad of nicely cooked, tender grilled octopus. Same goes with the perfectly good bowl of tomato soup or the butternut-squash capellacci. But the problem is that in this city, it’s easy to do so much better.