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An upscale hotel dining room with a menu that’s two-thirds Italian and one-third Asian would normally send us running. (So would the atrocious upholstery on the banquettes.) But this place surprised us at every turn. We watched as a pizza maker rolled out the dough for our deliciously sweet, creamy, salty pie of grapes, goat cheese and sausage and baked it to perfection in a wood-burning oven. And believe it or not, a trio of plump seafood dumplings were tasty little things that could have come out of any Chinese kitchen.