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Don’t be turned off by the Depression-era Tokyo Hotel that houses Ginza Japanese Restaurant, and don’t bother with inconsistent sushi. Instead, focus on the unique kitchen dishes like the natto, fermented soybean with a bittersweet punch, or yamakake, a bowl of liquefied mountain yam with raw tuna (good with natto). Juicy deep-fried oysters dusted with panko are excellent, and servers couldn’t be sweeter.
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