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Behind Duke’s nondescript facade, you’ll discover what seems to be the wild fantasy of some hunting enthusiast/interior designer. In a room of dark wood, heraldry and portraits of medieval nobility, diners enjoy hearty sausages, sauces and pickles favored in Baltic states. The “fried bread hill” is a perfect drinking buddy: a bready Lincoln Log–like construction coated with garlicky cheese. For an entrée, try the pork cutlets, served with mashed potatoes and a mushroom sauce.
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