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Owner Phaedra Divras lures East Rogers Parkers desperate for higher-end options. The wood-fired hearth that cooks the Roman-style pizzas was custom-made in Italy, for chrissakes—and that dedication pays off with a devoted clientele that packs the house for the capricciosa pie (a delicious heap of hard-boiled egg, prosciutto, olives, artichokes and mushrooms on a chewy crust), simple Margherita and tangy funghi e formaggi (goat cheese, mushroom, EVOO).