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The ever-popular, often-regrettable Underdogg is now christened Heat: same late-night hours, same hot-dog concept, same poorly ventilated subterranean space buried in the cuckoo's nest of Damen, North and Milwaukee. Supposedly there's a new chef—and the menu of wild-game sausages and truffle fries would seem to support that—but the food's as hapless as it's always been, from grease-soaked, undercooked french fries to weak attempts at Chicago-style dogs, Hot Doug's–style dogs and everything in between.