Hendrickx Belgian Bread Crafter

This scrappy retail operation consists of one woman, one small table of Belgian pastries and breads, and a little coffee kiosk. On one wall hangs a photograph of chef Renaud Hendrickx, who behind a swinging door crafts the oversize country bread (sold in eighths, quarters, halves or a full loaf) with a fluffy interior and chewy crust, yeasty croissants and simple apple turnovers. Coffee is made to order in a Belgian-style filter, so proceed at a European pace.