Hing Kee

Standard sushi and a passable pho kept this bare-bones spot afloat for a few years, but the addition of noodle-pulling chef Chang Ming Liu a couple of years ago sparked renewed interest in dinner and a show. The menu vaguely refers to Liu’s work as “ramen,” but noodle geeks will appreciate that he makes both dao xiao mian (knife-shaved) or la mian (hand-pulled), so specify when ordering from one of a half-dozen options. The spicy beef broth shows strength from Szechuan peppercorns, five-spice and dried red chilies, and it competes for best in show along with the oxtail version.