Hoanh Long

This simple Vietnamese spot can be a bit of a hike, but sweet hospitality coupled with a handful of standout dishes make for a stop worth the gas. Use the accompanying lettuce leaves and fresh herbs to make wraps of eggy fritters of crispy shrimp and sweet-potato sticks. Try the papaya salad topped with thin strips of grilled beef. One caveat: The cinnamon-laced pho is a tad sweet, so doctor it with plenty of lime juice and chili paste for balance.