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Loosely translated, vicinato is Italian for "neighborhood," and though this corner tavern may not be in yours, it’s worth a trip to eat good in the Heart of Italy. Expect big plates of traditional fare, including bianco nero (“white black”), a wide bowl of tasty mussels and clams in garlicky broth, and pillowy potato gnocchi made in-house and topped with a meaty ragù. For dessert, share a dark-chocolate ice-cream tartufo the size of Tony Soprano’s fist.
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