Jai Yen

This cute-as-a-mochi spot makes it easy to concentrate on the menu, thanks to the fact that it’s oddly never crowded. Start with the tuna tataki (chunks of cool tuna, avocado and red onion in a lemon-soy sauce) or the chive dumpling, perfectly pan-fried until lightly crisped and bulging with fresh chives. Avoid maki with unagi sauce: The chef has a heavy hand when it comes to ladling, and the rolls become a soggy mess, though that’s hardly a reason to steer clear.