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If you listen closely, you can hear Modest Mouse seeping softly through the dining-room speakers—the first sign that this isn’t your grandfather’s steakhouse. Chef John Hogan, also of Tavern on the Park, inflects the menu with an inescapable French sensibility. A perfectly poached egg tops the country salad of crisp frisée, and Dover sole meunière gets a classic tableside presentation. The half-dozen cuts of steaks arrive perfectly cooked and gushing with juices. Now if we could only get the staff to turn up the music.