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Don’t be deterred by the glowing heat-lamp case brimming with fried foods near the front door of this Puerto Rican joint; walk a little farther into the back room and you’ll get the home-style treatment. Starters are standard grease-bombs from that front case, so move right along to the excellent jibarito, sliver-thin skirt steak sandwiched between crispy plantains. The signature lechon (roast pork) is commendable, but for a solid platter of Puerto Rican goodness go for the pork-studded mofongo, which shows up with a heap of cool, limey shrimp salad to lighten the load.