Las Palmas

For vegetarians and vegans, Las Palmas chef Armando Gonzalez should be a hero. Not only does the guy have a rare vegan entrée permanently on his menu (the description, “Made to order by Chef,” indicates that the dude’s not just throwing salsa on a Tofu Pup), but the most delicious item among his offerings is the vegetarian enchayotadas. That dish, corn tortillas stuffed with softened vegetables, has a jalapeño-tomatilla salsa that is excruciatingly habit-forming. Other dishes have similar effects: Thin slices of duck are paired with an intense prickly-pear-and-habanero sauce; lamb shank, so nicely cooked it pulls off the bone with almost no effort, is a mere vehicle for the jus on the plate.