The menu at this Blue Island spot reads like an eclectic tribute to Southern, Cajun and Creole cooking, and the kitchen consistently nails the classics (gumbo, fried green tomatoes, shrimp Creole). There’s an oddball spin on some dishes, but it mostly works, particularly with the crawfish étouffée risotto and “loafs” (a.k.a. po’ boys) drizzled with melted Brie. The barbecue shrimp served on grits should satiate most Southern cravings. The restaurant’s mantra, “sit long, talk much,” translates into long waits on weekend nights, but quick bar service keeps the cold Abita beers coming, so time flies.