Matto Fornaio (CLOSED)

The goods at this Italian bakeshop on a residential Lakeview block are not intended for sweet-toothed cupcake fiends. For starters, the desserts—hazelnut sponge cake with fresh strawberries, chocolate torte that’s moist on the inside and crumbly on top—go easy on the sugar. And better than the sweets are the savories: a tart filled with squash, bitter greens and goat cheese; focaccia dough rolled with salty mortadella for the strombilini carne; and fresh-baked dinner rolls with a subtle buttermilk tang.