Meatheads

Burger-and-fries joints fall into one of two schools. There’s the Edzo’s/Five Guys/Epic Burger school, which places priority on things like freshly ground beef and hand-cut fries. Then there’s the McDonald’s school, which is where we’d put this small burger chain with locations in the suburbs. It’s not the menu that reminds us of fast food (on the contrary, the menu causes hunger pangs); instead, it’s the squishy buns, the characterless chicken sandwich and the burgers that don’t pop no matter how many toppings you pile on. Of course, just like at McDonald’s, there are some redeeming values. Here they take the form of addictive cajun fries and a decent mocha milkshake.