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Chandeliers hang from the ceiling of this plush restaurant, which has been holding court on this corner of Old Town since before Old Town was, um, old. A few scenesters sit on the sidewalk patio to people-watch before heading out to the bars, but for the most part this is a family place, where big tables holding intergenerational groups are not the exception but the rule. Makes sense: It takes a lot of people to scarf down the big portions of chicken parmigiana, lemony grilled calamari and the capellini “Melissa” with plump shrimp and sweet sun-dried tomatoes. (On the other hand, the hazelnut-studded tartufo only requires the appetite of one.)
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