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The Broadway address of this pizzeria leads to a stark, seatless carryout-and-delivery operation, churning out deep-dish and Chicago-style square-cut thin-crust. Around the corner on Waveland is its sit-down counterpart, a no-nonsense room where cheap Chianti flows like water and the menu is identical to any other family-style Italian-American restaurant in town. Romantic? Hardly. Destination-worthy? Nope. But the Neapolitan pizza (a relatively new addition to the menu) is far better than we could have imagined: puffy and blackened on the exterior, thin and wet in the center, and with no skimping on the cheese and toppings. (After all, this is still a Chicago pizzeria.)
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