Pizza Art Café

On a cold evening, this eatery—with its candlelit room and wood-burning oven busy baking two dozen types of pie—is a welcome discovery. The ’za is somewhere between Chicago-style bar pizza and the relatively spare Neapolitan varieties; we’re fans of the Pugliese pizza with onion and pecorino cheese. There’s also strong representation from Italy’s Dalmatian coast neighbors; some Bosnian specialties show up on a “secret” menu that diners can request. We were impressed with the cevapcici, sausage dressed with a creamy cheese and raw onions, cushioned in fresh-cooked pita. Our favorite of the lot is the must-have house-cured smoked beef: dense, chewy, salty and, like most great works of art, complex.