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The thin-versus-thick debate means nothing at the original Pompei, which has been making traditional thickish, square, Italian bakery–style pizza since 1909. Pompei has fancier digs and a gussied-up menu this century, luring health-minded types from the nearby medical centers for crisp salads with addictive housemade dressings. Scoot through the long cafeteria lines with the diehards who come in for slices of sausage, hand-cut pastas with gargantuan meatballs, and classic pepper-and-egg sandwiches.