Silver Seafood

Seafood’s the name of the game at this modest Chinese staple, so start off right with clams bathed in a spicy black bean sauce or a huge spicy-and-salted crab, deep fried and tossed with onions and peppers. Not feeling seafood? A dish of Szechuan string beans adds some green to the table, while the crispy chicken is a half or whole bird with golden, crackly skin and fresh lemon and spiced salt.