Sultan’s is a good metaphor for Wicker Park’s gentrification. What was once a mom-and-pop Middle Eastern grocery with a lunch counter in the back has exploded into a jam-packed eatery in the last 15 years or so. But don’t let the charming digs or the cute boys behind the counter distract you: You’re here for the fresh salad bar, the zatter fattia (two spice-rubbed slabs of bread filled with feta cheese and hummus or baba ghanoush) and, of course, the falafel sandwich.
![sultan's market](https://media.timeout.com/images/101228437/750/422/image.jpg)
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