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Countering this joint’s black-clad servers, Sade remix–loving DJ and throngs of clubgoers are incredibly fresh sushi and creatively cooked dishes. Flash-cooked, citrus-tinged shrimp tops green-tea soba noodles; spicy, vinegar-tossed slaw is topped with tempura soft-shell crab drizzled with wasabi honey; grilled salmon gets earthy plum sauce and mizuna greens; and crunchy, gooey maki like the Ecuador, Godzilla and Tarantula overload our senses and stand in for dessert.