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Sometimes you want straight-up Thai, the lad nar and crab-and-cream-cheese–filled wontons you first tried in college. If that’s the case, this spot’s for you. The crispy roll appetizer is oddly addictive: fried, cigar-shaped rolls of paper-thin rice wrapper holding in threads of vermicelli noodle, ground chicken and sprouts. The peanut-vinegar sauce shines in the fried tofu starter, as does the tangy lime dressing for both the papaya and the charbroiled sliced beef salads. Pad thai is tasty enough, but a better bet is the spinach and pork in tamarind curry.
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