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This sultry, candlelit dining room features modern, white-on-white tableware and an eccentric, sexed-up Japanese menu, the perfect backdrop for the singularly named chef Hemmi to do his thing. He drops sweet clusters of crab atop greens, oranges and avocados for a tasty starter, and delivers with fresh, clean flavors and meaty cuts when it comes to the pricey nigiri and sashimi. Just skip the spicy tuna sampler—toppings like pine nuts, caviar and avocado add interest but little flavor.