Within its warm, wooden, southern Polish confines, U Gazdy offers upscale food and home-style service, both thanks to its warm owner and hostess, Beata. First, she’ll bring complimentary rye bread with buttery, creamy smalec (rendered lard) for slathering. Next, she might steer you toward a bowl of the zurek (white borscht) or the cool, slick, lightly smoked salmon. Listen up when she recommends the pork tenderloin “escallops,” which, no, doesn’t contain scallops, but does boast a smoky cheese sauce over a tenderloin that rivals any in town. Crispy skinned duck is done traditionally, baked with apples, and perfectly. Finish with the Attorney’s Delight—fried bananas drizzled with Polish eggnog—and prod Beata for the origin of the name.