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Creative twists (and a soundtrack of early-’90s hip-hop) snap diners out of standard-sushi boredom at this contemporary Japanese BYOB. It’s not every day you find foie-gras vinaigrette drizzled onto your snapper sashimi, corn and mint tossed into salmon ceviche, or tightly rolled goma ae (spinach with sesame paste) finished with soy-yuzu “air.” Nigiri and maki round things out, but filling up on them would be missing the point.
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