We’re not going to pretend that this place isn’t tourist hell. But if you can deal with the long waits and the T.G.I. Friday’s vibe, you’ll be rewarded with surprisingly delicious grill fare. Steak skewers—plated atop a heap of addictive fried onions—are sweet and succulent. Golden “beer-can chicken” gets its intense flavor from loads of garlic and an herbal spice rub. And thick Black Angus burgers drip with juices. All of which prompts one question: Why are we letting tourists have the run of this place?