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Chef John des Rosiers is a big deal in the suburbs, where he has a restaurant (Inovasi) and a couple of these prepared-food stores. We could make a big deal out of the fact that we found asparagus in some of these “local,” “natural” dishes in the middle of winter. But we won’t, because Wisma’s smoked turkey and Swiss sandwich is terrific, as is its tequila-spiked chicken tortilla soup and the salmon with quinoa (and, yes, asparagus). Besides, at $7 a sandwich—which is basically what Potbelly charges—how can we possibly complain?