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The room is reminiscent of a retirement-home cafeteria, and the menu has multiple personalities, but somehow Yoshi pulls it all together. Considering his 20-plus years in the game putting out mishmashed food long before the term fusion was coined, it’s no shock to see yellowtail with guac or a Wagyu burger topped with a huge chunk of Brie. Thanks to Yoshi’s former gig as a fish guy, seafood sings here, especially seasonal items like fat, juicy mussels in lemongrass curry. Desserts, on the other hand, were disappointing across the board.
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