The captain of this hipster-Japanese ship is Sushi Wabi alum Yut Vong, whose strength doesn’t lie in cream cheese and spicy mayo. Instead, it’s found on the grill, which adds just enough char to meats such as Korean-style beef short rib and pork shoulder bathed in sake, honey, garlic and cilantro. Juicy chicken thighs carry a good dose of miso and scallion, and the fish tofu is, in a word, awesome. Thai touches show up in standard noodle dishes, but really? You’re going to get Thai food at a robata?