Photograph: Courtesy Chicago History Museum
Photograph: Courtesy Chicago History Museum |

As a milliner, James used plastic�a relatively new material�to shape hats. Relocating to New York in 1928, James excelled by creating wearable but heavily layered gowns (this 1957 satin �Tree� dress, on display, weighs 13 pounds) with innovative techniques, including heat-set plastic used as a boning material.

“Charles James: Genius Deconstructed” at the Chicago History Museum

The history museum peels back the layers of America’s first couturier.

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Around 1925, Charles James—a feisty young man—was sent from England to his mother’s birthplace, Chicago. His parents lined up a job with energy magnate Samuel Insull, but wild child James decided to open a hat store at 1209 North State Street. This began James’s relationship with Chicago. The museum would come to own 18 pieces by James, who became widely influential in women’s fashion. “The exhibit breaks down his design method to understand why he’s unique and still relevant today,” says John Russick, the Chicago History Museum’s director of curatorial affairs.

“Charles James: Genius Deconstructed” runs through April 15 at Chicago History Museum.

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