Visitors accustomed to the old, grungey, rock-a-punk Melin will be in for a shock: Tkalčićeva’s favourite cult bar entered 2014 in a completely new guise. For starters, the guiding musical theme is now Jazz with a capital J – brassy blasts and sultry crooning spew forth from the sound system and there’s a tiny stage for occasional live performance. The decor follows the guess-what-I-bought-at-the-flea-market school of interior design, with misfit furnishings, and hollowed-out TVs setting a pleasingly vintage tone. The choice of wines and spirits is excellent (it’s less of a beer-drinkers joint than it used to be); your bill arrives tucked into the pages of a paperback book. The age range of the customers has risen slightly as a result of the makeover; although such is Melin’s swim-against-the-tide nature that it remains a favourite of youngish alternative types too.