Tonight, January 19, in Rijeka, the public will discover who will be crowned Carnival Queen, overseer of the proceedings to follow beside the MC, Meštar Sandi. The event kicks off a season that culminates in the Rijeka Carnival, the biggest in the region, on the Sunday before Ash Wednesday, February 11.
The modern version of the festival began in 1982, but harks back to traditions that run centuries deep, all in some way warding off the winter or potential dangers of invasion. As such, the Rijeka Carnival isn’t simply about the parade of bellringers and costumes but the journey made by those in the procession and the stories behind them.
Each local community has its own costumes, rituals and traditions, which contribute to carnival season. The Grobnički Dondolaši, for example, march through surrounding villages ringing their bells, echoing their origins as Grobnik shepherds scaring off potential predators. Their descent ultimately concludes in the city of Rijeka, and the main carnival itself.
Aside from the grand finale, a hugely popular feature is the Children’s Parade – this year taking place on January 27 – in which schools and nurseries from the region and beyond flood the streets with good cheer and costumes.
The Sunday parade is the main colourful spectacle, with thousands coming from all over Europe to watch. In the march, groups in strange masks representing different regions of Rijeka take to the streets, with the biggest crowds along the Korzo. The Grobnički Dondolaši are joined by the Halubajski Zvončari from Halubje, whose striking animal likenesses and sheepskin costumes have been added onto the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Other bellringers hail from Zamet and model their look after fearsome Vikings. Walking in a distinctive criss-cross pattern, the Zametski Zvončari each ring their own large bell while marching under their banner.
Once all groups have walked the parade, the carnival puppet is burned and the party begins, taking over the city and running deep into the night.
These are the main components of this unique cultural event – the full programme can be found here.