At first glance, the narrow twisting streets of Vodnjan, 10km north of Pula, look like those in any similarly tranquil town in Istria: steep, historic and fairly empty except in high season.
But look closer, and you’ll spot a series of murals created by some of Europe’s top urban artists. Paris-based Jean-Michel Ouvry and Sébastien Touache, Berlin collective Centrifuga, and Jahwan, best known for his work in Odessa, these all have works decorating the façades of this hilltop community. Then there's Stipan Tadić, integral to the huge movement of street art in his home city of Zagreb.
Whereas the Croatian capital has long been associated with this kind of urban creativity, Vodnjan, thanks to its many galleries and active art scene, has been just as involved in its own way.
Prime mover in this was the Street Art and Boombarstick Festival, which spanned three years from 2013 to 2015, showcasing 250 artists contributing 24 vibrant murals across town. Even though the festival has not been held since, you can download a detailed map to follow the murals as you tour Vodnjan.
While the future of Boombarstick isn’t clear, an event in similar vein, B Urban Graffiti Jam, still takes place most summers, when contemporary gallery El Magazéin at Portarol ulica 33 hosts exhibitions, concerts, poetry readings, book presentations and fashion shows.