Bistro Toć

A five-minute walk from the Riva, this smart but affordable neighbourhood konoba is a good place for traditional Dalmatian lunches, with squid risottos, simple fish fillets and homemade-pasta-with-goulash combinations frequently chalked up on a board outside. Under its previous incarnation as Bistro Black Cat, it was the kind of place that served foreigner-friendly dishes that proved highly popular with incoming backpackers – and exotic items like chili con carne, tortillas and the odd vegetarian choice are still on the menu. Whatever you eat, be sure to include dessert in your dining plans – the home-made cakes are in a class of their own.