gradsKavana

Despite a recent makeover that took away many of this grand old coffeehouse's original features, this remains the locals' venue of choice for coffee-and-cake indulgence, exchanges of gossip and business meetings. It remains highly respected for its cakes and sweets, and its charming habit of serving hot drinks on a shiny tray. Cocktails and wines are good enough to keep the evening crowd happy, and the outdoor terrace – which hovers above Luža square like a box at the theatre – remains the best vantage point from which to observe the ebb and flow of Old-Town life. Currently closed for renovation.